Third Street
Veterinary Hospital, PC
McMinnville, Oregon 97128
Office phone: (503) 472-9418
Breeding
Cats and Raising Kittens
Breeding
cats and raising kittens can be an extremely rewarding experience or it may
produce frustration and failure. The
following information is provided in order to increase your chances of success.
The Feline Estrus Period
The
female cat (queen) comes into heat (estrus) many times each year. The heat period lasts about 2-3 weeks. If she is not bred, she will return to heat
in 1-2 weeks. This cycle will continue
for several heat cycles or until she is bred.
The period of time that she is out of heat will vary depending on
geographic and environmental factors, such as temperature and the number of
daylight hours.
Signs of Estrus
The
signs of heat are different in cats as compared to dogs. Cats have minimal vaginal bleeding, usually
not even enough to be detected. Changes
in behavior represent the most notable sign.
Cats become very affectionate.
They rub against their owners and furniture and constantly want
attention. They roll on the floor. When stroked over the back, they raise their
rear quarters into the air and tread with the back legs. They also become very vocal. These behavior changes often become
obnoxious to owners and may be interpreted as some unusual illness. In addition, queens in heat attract intact
(non-neutered) male cats. Tomcats that
have never been seen will appear and attempt to enter the house to get to the
female.
Breeding
Male
cats are more successful breeders when they are in familiar surroundings. Therefore, it is preferable to take the
female to the male's home for breeding.
The timing for breeding cats is not highly critical or complicated
because cats are induced ovulators.
This means that the act of breeding stimulates the ovaries to release
eggs. Therefore, the female's eggs
should be present when the sperm are deposited in the reproductive tract at
breeding. Most female cats require 3-4
breedings within a 24-hour period for ovulation to occur. Once ovulation has occurred, the female cat
will go out of heat within a day or two.
The Pregnant Queen
Pregnancy,
also called “gestation,” ranges from 60 to 67 days and averages 63 days. Most cats deliver (queen) between days 63
and 65. The only way to accurately
determine the stage of pregnancy is to count days from the time of
breeding. If possible, the breeding
date should be recorded. The mother
should be examined 3 weeks after breeding to confirm her pregnancy.
A
pregnant cat should be fed a kitten formulation of a premium brand of cat food
for the duration of the pregnancy and through the nursing period. These diets are generally available through
veterinary hospitals or pet stores.
Kitten diets provide all the extra nutrition needed for the mother and
her litter. If the mother is eating one
of these diets, no calcium, vitamin, or mineral supplements are needed. (The kitten formulation is necessary to
provide the extra nutrients for pregnancy and nursing).
During
pregnancy, the mother's food consumption will often reach 1.5 times her level
before pregnancy. By the end of the
nursing period, it may exceed 2 times the pre-pregnancy amount. Do not withhold food; increasing the number
of feedings per day is helpful in allowing her to eat enough for her needs and
those of the kittens.
Preparation for Queening
From
the time of breeding, many cats show behavioral changes. Most develop an unusually sweet and loving
disposition and demand more affection and attention. However, some may become uncharacteristically irritable. Some experience a few days of vomition
("morning sickness"), followed by the development of a ravenous
appetite that persists throughout the pregnancy.
During
the latter stages of pregnancy, the expectant mother begins to look for a
secure place for delivery. Many become
uncomfortable being alone and will cling closely to the owner. At the onset of labor, many nervously seek a
place to make the "nest" or birthing place. If the cat is attached to her owner, she may not want to be left
alone at the time of delivery. If left
alone, she may delay delivery until the owner returns.
Prior
to the time of delivery, a queening box should be selected and placed in a
secluded place, such as a closet or a dark corner. The box should be large enough for the cat to move around freely,
but have low enough sides so that she can see out and so the owner can reach
inside to give assistance, if needed.
The bottom of the box should be lined with several layers of
newspapers. These provide a private
hiding place for the expectant and delivering mother and will absorb the
birthing fluids. The upper, soiled
layers may be removed with minimal interruption to the mother and her newborn
kittens.
Labor and Delivery
Most
cats experience delivery without complications; however, first-time mothers
should be attended by their owner until at least one or two kittens are
born. If these are born quickly and
without assistance, further attendance may not be necessary, although it is
desirable. If the owner elects to
leave, care should be taken such that the cat does not try to follow and leave
the queening box.
The
signs of impending labor generally include nervousness and panting. The cat will often quit eating during the
last 24 hours before labor. She will
also usually have a drop in rectal temperature below 100o F (37.8 C). The temperature drop may
occur intermittently for several days prior to delivery, but it will usually be
constant for the last 24 hours.
Delivery
times will vary. Shorthaired cats and
cats having slim heads, such as Siamese, may complete delivery in one to two
hours. Domestic body type cats (having
large, round heads) generally require longer delivery times. Persian and other domestic body type kittens
tend to be very large and have sizable heads that make delivery more
difficult. It is not unusual for
Persians to rest an hour or more between each kitten. Rarely, a cat may deliver one or two kittens, then have labor
stop for as long as twenty-four hours before the remainder of the litter is
borne. However, if labor does not
resume within a few hours after the delivery of the first kittens, examination
by a veterinarian is advised. If labor
is interrupted for twenty-four hours or more, veterinary assistance should
definitely be obtained.
Kittens
are usually borne head first; however, breech presentations, in which the
kitten is delivered tail end first, occur about 40% of the time and are also
considered normal. Each kitten is
enclosed in a sac that is part of the placenta ("afterbirth"). The placentas usually pass after the kittens
are born. However, any that do not pass
will disintegrate and pass within 24-48 hours after delivery. It is normal for the mother to eat the
placentas.
If
the delivery proceeds normally, a few contractions will discharge the kitten;
it should exit the birth canal within ten minutes of being visible. Following delivery, the mother should lick
the newborn's face. She will then proceed to wash it and toss it about. Her tongue is used to tear the sac and
expose the mouth and nose. This
vigorous washing stimulates circulation, causing the kitten to cry and begin
breathing; it also dries the newborn's haircoat. The mother will sever the umbilical cord by chewing it about 3/4
to 1 inch (1.9 to 2.5 cm) from the body.
Next, she will eat the placenta.
If
the kitten or a fluid-filled bubble is partially visible from the vagina, the
owner should assist delivery. A
dampened gauze or thin wash cloth can be used to break the bubble and grasp the
head or feet. When a contraction
occurs, firm traction should be applied in a downward (i.e., toward her rear
feet) direction. If reasonable traction
is applied without being able to remove the kitten, or if the queen cries
intensely during this process, the kitten is probably lodged. A veterinarian's assistance should be sought
without delay.
It
is normal for the female to remove the placental sac and clean the kittens;
however, first-time mothers may be bewildered by the experience and hesitate to
do so. If the sac is not removed within
a few minutes after delivery, the kitten will suffocate, so the owner should be
prepared to intervene. The kitten's
face should be wiped with a damp wash cloth or gauze to remove the sac and
allow breathing. Vigorous rubbing with
a soft, warm towel will stimulate circulation and dry the hair. The umbilical cord should be tied with cord
(i.e., sewing thread, dental floss) and cut with clean scissors. The cord should be tied snugly and cut about
1/2 inch (1.3 cm) from the body so it is unlikely to be pulled off as the
kitten moves around the queening box.
Newborn
kittens may aspirate fluid into the lungs, as evidenced by a loud raspy noise
during respiration. This fluid can be
removed by the following procedure.
First, the kitten should be held in the palm of one's hand with the face
cradled between the first two fingers.
The head should be held firmly with this hand, and the body should be
held firmly with the other. Next, a
downward swing motion with the hands should make the kitten gasp. Gravity will help the fluid and mucus move
out of the lungs. This process may be
tried several times until the lungs sound clear. The tongue is a reliable indicator of successful respiration. If the kitten is getting adequate oxygen, it
will appear pink to red. A bluish
colored tongue indicates insufficient oxygen to the lungs, signaling that the
swinging procedure should be repeated.
It
may be helpful to have a smaller, clean, dry box lined with a warm towel for
the newborn kittens. (A towel can be
warmed in a microwave oven.) After the
kitten is stable and the cord has been tied, it should be placed in the incubator
box while the mother is completing delivery.
Warmth is essential so a heating pad or hot water bottle may be placed
in the box or a heat lamp may be placed nearby. If a heating pad is used, it should be placed on the low setting
and covered with a towel to prevent overheating. A hot water bottle should also be covered with a towel. Remember, the newborn kittens may be unable
to move away from the heat source.
Likewise, caution should also be exercised when using a heat lamp.
Once
the delivery is completed, the soiled newspapers should be removed from the
whelping or queening box. The box
should be lined with soft bedding prior to the kittens' return. The mother should accept the kittens readily
and recline for nursing.
The
mother and her litter should be examined by a veterinarian within 24 hours
after the delivery is completed. This
visit is to check the mother for complete delivery and to check the newborn
kittens. The mother may receive an
injection to contract the uterus and stimulate milk production.
The
mother will have a bloody vaginal discharge for 3-7 days following
delivery. If it continues for longer
than a week, she should be examined by a veterinarian for possible problems.
Problems During Delivery
Although
most cats deliver without need for assistance, problems do arise which require
the attention of a veterinarian.
Professional assistance should be sought if any of the following occur:
1)
Twenty minutes of intense labor occurs without a kitten being delivered.
2)
Ten minutes of intense labor occurs when a kitten or a fluid-filled bubble is
visible in the birth canal.
3)
The mother experiences acute (sudden) depression or marked lethargy.
4)
The mother's body temperature exceeds 103o F (39.4 C) (via a rectal thermometer).
5)
Fresh blood discharges from the vagina for more than 10 minutes.
Difficulty
delivering (dystocia) may be managed with or without surgery. The condition of the mother, size of the
litter, and size of the kittens are factors used in making that decision.
Premature Delivery
Occasionally,
a mother will deliver a litter several days premature. The kittens may be small, thin, and have
little or no hair. It is possible for
them to survive, but they require an enormous amount of care, since they are
subject to chilling and are frequently very weak and unable to swallow. Some may be able to nurse but are so weak
that they must be held next to the mother.
Kittens that do not nurse can be fed with a small syringe, bottle, or
stomach tube. The equipment and
instructions for these procedures are available from a veterinarian. Premature kittens must be kept warm. The mother can provide sufficient radiant
heat from her body if she will stay close to them. If she refuses, heat can be provided with a heat lamp, heating
pad, or hot water bottle. Excessive
heat can be just as harmful as chilling, so any form of artificial heat must be
controlled. The temperature in the box
should be maintained at 85 to 90 F (29.4 to 32.2 C), but the box should be
large enough so the kittens can move away from the heat if it becomes
uncomfortable.
Stillborn Kittens
It
is not uncommon for one or two kittens in a litter to be stillborn. Sometimes, a stillborn kitten will disrupt
labor, resulting in dystocia. At other
times, the dead kitten will be born normally.
Although there is always a cause for this occurrence, it is often not
easily determined without an autopsy that includes cultures and the submission
of tissues to a pathologist. This is
only recommended in special circumstances.
Newborn Kittens
The
mother will spend most of her time with the kittens during the next few
days. The kittens need to be kept warm
and to nurse frequently; they should be checked every few hours to make certain
that they are warm and well fed. The
mother should be checked to make certain that she is producing adequate milk.
If
the mother does not stay in the box, the kittens' temperature must be
monitored. If the kittens are cold,
supplemental heating should be provided.
During the first four days of life, the newborns' box should be maintained
at 85 to 90 F (29.4 to 32.2 C). The
temperature may gradually be decreased to 80 F (26.7 C) by the seventh to tenth
day and to 72 F (22.2 C) by the end of the fourth week. If the litter is large, the temperature need
not be as high. As kittens huddle
together, their body heat provides additional warmth.
If
the mother feels the kittens are in danger or if there is too much light, she
may become anxious. Placing a sheet or
cloth over most of the top of the box to obscure much of the light may resolve
the problem. An enclosed box is also a
solution. Some cats, especially
first-time mothers, are more anxious than others. Such cats may attempt to hide their young, even from her
owner. Moving from place to place may
continue and will endanger the kittens if they are placed in a cold or drafty
location. Cats with this behavior
should be caged in a secluded area.
This type of mother has also been known to kill her kittens as a means
of "protecting" them from danger.
Troubleshooting with the
Newborn Kitten.
Kittens
should eat or sleep 90% of the time during the first 2 weeks. If they are crying during or after eating,
they are usually becoming ill or are not getting adequate milk. A newborn kitten is very susceptible to
infections and can die within 24 hours.
If excessive crying occurs, the mother and entire litter should be
examined by a veterinarian promptly.
When
the milk supply is inadequate, supplemental feeding one to three times per day
is recommended and should be performed on any litter with 5+ kittens. There are several commercial formulae
available that are made to supply the needs of kittens. They require no
preparation other than warming. They
should be warmed to 95 to 100 F (35 to 37.8 C) before feeding. Its temperature can be tested on one's
forearm; it should be about the same as one's skin. An alternative is canned goats' milk that is available in most
grocery stores. The commercial products
have directions concerning feeding amounts.
If the kittens are still nursing from their mother, the amounts
recommended will be excessive.
Generally, 1/3 to 1/2 of the listed amount should be the daily
goal. Supplemental feeding may be
continued until the kittens are old enough to eat kitten food.
If
the mother does not produce milk or her milk becomes infected, the kittens will
also cry. If this occurs, the entire
litter could die within 24 to 48 hours.
Total replacement feeding, using the mentioned products, or adopting the
kittens to another nursing mother is usually necessary. If replacement feeding is chosen, the
amounts of milk listed on the product should be fed. Kittens less than 2 weeks of age should be fed every 3-4
hours. Kittens 2-4 weeks of age do well
with feedings every 6-8 hours. Weaning,
as described below, should begin at 3-4 weeks of age.
The First Few Weeks of Life
For
the first month of life kittens require very little care from the owner because
their mother will feed and care for them.
They are born with their eyes closed, but they will open in 7 to 14 days. If swelling or bulging is noted under the
eyelids, they should be opened gently.
A cotton ball dampened with warm water may be used to assist opening the
lids. If the swelling is due to
infection, pus will exit the open eyelids and should be treated as prescribed
by a veterinarian. If the eyes have not
opened within 14 days of age, they should be opened by a veterinarian.
Kittens
should be observed for their rate of growth.
They should double their birth weight in about one week.
At
two weeks of age, kittens should be alert and trying to stand. At three weeks, they generally try to climb
out of their box. At four weeks, all of
the kittens should be able to walk, run, and play.
Kittens
should begin eating solid food about 3 to 4 weeks of age. Initially, one
of the milk replacers or cow's milk diluted 50:50 with water should be placed
in a flat saucer. The kittens' noses
should be dipped into the milk 2 or 3 times per day until they begin to lap;
this usually takes 1-3 days. Next,
canned kitten food should be placed in the milk until it is soggy. As the kittens lap the milk, they will also
ingest the food. The amount of milk
should be decreased daily until they are eating the canned food with little or
no moisture added; this should occur by 4 to 6 weeks of age.
Milk Fever
Eclampsia
or milk fever is a depletion of calcium from the mother due to heavy milk
production. It generally occurs when
the kittens are 3-5 weeks old (just before weaning) and most often to mothers
with large litters. The mother has
muscle spasms resulting in rigid legs, spastic movements, and heavy
panting. This can be fatal in 30-60
minutes, so a veterinarian should be consulted immediately.
Dietary Requirements of the
Growing Kitten
Diet
is extremely important for a growing kitten.
There are many commercial foods specially formulated for kittens. These foods meet their unique nutritional
requirements and should be fed until 12 months of age. Kitten foods are available in dry and canned
formulations. Dry foods are less
expensive and can be left in the bowl for the kitten to eat at will. Kittens will eat small amounts as often as
12 times during the day. Canned foods
offer a change and are just as nutritious.
We
recommend that you buy FOOD FORMULATED FOR KITTENS. Adult formulations are not recommended since they do not provide
the nutrition required for a kitten.
Advertisements tend to promote taste rather than nutrition so one should
be careful that their influence on purchasing habits is not detrimental to
one's cat. Table food is not recommended; although often more appealing than
cat food, balanced, complete nutrition is usually compromised. Dog food should not be fed to cats since it
is deficient in vital nutrients and the amount of protein required by kittens
and adult cats.
We
recommend that you buy NAME BRAND FOOD.
It is generally a good idea to avoid generic brands of food. In the United States, we recommend that you
only buy food that has the AAFCO (American Association of Feed Control
Officials) certification. Usually, you
can find this information very easily on the food label. AAFCO is an organization that oversees the
entire pet food industry. It does not
endorse any particular food, but will tell you if the food has met the minimum
requirements for nutrition, which are set by the industry. Most of the commercial pet foods will have
the AAFCO label.
Vaccinating the Kittens
Kittens
are provided some immunity to feline diseases before and shortly after
birth. The mother's antibodies cross
the placenta and enter the kittens' circulation. Some antibodies are also provided in the mother's milk. These "maternal antibodies"
protect the kittens against the diseases to which the mother is immune. This explains why is it desirable to booster
the mother's vaccinations within a few months prior to breeding.
Although
very protective, maternal antibodies last for only a few weeks; after this
time, the kitten becomes susceptible to disease. The vaccination program should be started at about 6 to 8 weeks
of age. Kittens should be vaccinated
against feline enteritis (distemper or panleukopenia), respiratory viruses
(feline herpesvirus and calicivirus), and rabies. If the kitten will be allowed to go outdoors or to be in contact
with cats that go outdoors, leukemia virus vaccine should also be
considered. Your cat's needs will be
discussed at the time of the first visit for vaccinations.
Maternal
antibodies are passed in the mother's milk only during the first 1-3 days after
delivery. If, for any reason, the
kittens do not nurse during this important period of time, their vaccinations
should begin about 2 to 4 weeks of age, depending on likely disease exposure. A veterinarian can make specific recommendations
for each particular situation.
Deworming the Kittens
Intestinal
parasites ("worms") are common in kittens. Symptoms include general poor condition, chronic soft or bloody
stools, loss of appetite, a pot-bellied appearance, loss of luster of the
haircoat, and weight loss. Some
parasites are transmitted from the mother to her offspring and others are
carried by fleas. Some are transmitted
through the stool of an infected cat.
Very few of these parasites are visible in the stool, so their eggs must
be detected by the veterinarian with a microscope.
A
microscopic examination of the feces will reveal the eggs of most of these
parasites. Generally, this test should
be performed at the time of the first vaccinations. However, it may be performed as early as 3 weeks of age if a
parasite problem is suspected.
Treatment is based on the type of parasites found, although some
veterinarians elect to treat all kittens because they know that fecal tests can
be falsely negative. Your veterinarian
should be consulted for specific recommendations for your kittens.